We Have Ignition!

Time to get the engine back in and make sure she fires up before placing the order for Race Glass and reinforced Engine Covers. First step was to use my engine jack to lift the engine into position. This is a fiddly job as everything needs to line up perfectly in order to get the engine bolts in.

 

The two rear nuts for the upper and lower engine bolts are single use "self-locking" nuts, so it's important to get new ones.

 

With the engine in place and supported by the chassis, time to replace those fatigued sump bolts I spoke about earlier, I've used some new stainless steel bolts which should be much stronger than the OEM. They tightened to torque straight away.

Time to re-cable the wiring loom, re-install the carburettors, put the airbox back in, and connect the fuel tank. This is where I'm very glad a labelled EVERYTHING!

With the sump and the radiator filled the only thing left to do was pull in the clutch lever and hit the starter! Damn what a tense moment!

Then... ooops... helps to remember to tighten the radiator hose clamp! This one gave me a heart attack!

Take two!

Now I have a running bike, time to put the fairings back on and run it in for a thousand K's. I'll then change the oil and filter. I've also booked in for a track day at Broadford to put her through the paces and see how she runs at full throttle.

Once the oil and filter is changed I'll go through lock wiring everything off (one of the GCR's I talked about earlier).

Cheers,
SammyA

New Cyclinder Head

The search began for a new head, and I was able to locate one complete, with cams, valves, springs, buckets and shims. I quickly ordered the required gaskets for the changeover and got stuck into it yesterday and today.

The first job was to clean the shrapnel out of the sump and the strainer, even though the sump (and most of the shredded metal) has been emptied, I wanted to make sure I didn't have any left overs sitting in the engine.

Also worth checking the oil regulator while I'm at it

Putting the sump back on I found a couple of the bolts were fatigued and snapped while trying to tighten them to the correct torque setting. I've bought some new bolts (stainless steel), same thread, which I'll machine up as replacements, but I'll do this once the engine is back in the bike.

Next job was to get new head on top of the block. I put a fresh head gasket in while I was at it. With the head tightened on, the cams needed to be installed in the correct position, which meant lining up the markings on the cam gears, with the crank set at "top dead centre"

"Top Dead Centre" marking:

Count out 15 pins between the (3) on the left intake cam and (2) on the right exhaust cam, the zip ties help hold it in position while I work on the rest:

When putting the cams back in its important to coat the journals with "Suzuki Molly Paste", this helps them bed in, and prevents it binding up at first startup:

Once the cams are all in place its a matter of bolting in the top of the journals, putting the cam chain tensioner back in, and with a bit of Three Bond bolting the head cover on.


And here she is ready to bolt back into the bike:

Cheers,
SammyA

Cracked Camshaft Journal

Having now disassembled the Cylinder Head, it's now clear what the problem is. (Cylinder 1 port was a furphy, it was the beginings of a wasp nest.) A broken camshaft journal has allowed the intake camshaft to jump out of the "C-ring" and move around in the head.

The noise was actually the camshaft lobes slapping the head

Extensive damage all the way down the head

Minor scoring of the cam lobe from the metal filings off the head. It can probably be cleaned up/repolished if need be. As the camshaft is made of a harder metal than the head it is pretty much undamaged.

 Next step is to find a new cylinder head, preferably complete with valves/shims/buckets/cams.

Cheers,
SammyA

Touchdown - The Engine Is Out

With the Engine Mounting Thrust Adjusting Lock Nut removed and wiring labelled and disconnected, I needed to make one more similar tool using a 13mm socket as the base. This removed the Engine Mounting Thrust Adjuster. I then removed the remaining engine nuts with an 8mm Allen key connected to a log handled torque wrench, and used the motorcycle jack to lower the engine out of the chassis.

And touchdown!

With the engine out I snuck a look in the exhaust ports and noticed something interesting. Compare cylinder 4 (left) with cyclinder 1 (right).

Tomorrow I plan to take the head off and take a closer look.

Cheers,
SammyA

Engine Mounting Thrust Adjuster Socket Wrench

While removing the engine, I've come across a nut named the "Engine mounting thrust adjuster lock nut", which requires a "Special Tool" called 09940-14980: Engine Mounting Thrust Adjuster Socket Wrench. What is this tool? Lord only knows where I can get one, it's probably 6 week special order, I'd hate to think how much it'd be worth. So bugger it, time to get crafty and make one. I've purchased a 1/2 drive 13/16th socket for minimal cost, marked it up, and with a steady hand - got grinding.

The nut:

Texta it up:

Ready to go:

A bit more work done on the bike tonight, off come the fairings and the air box

 Carburettors and the radiator (it'll need a good clean out)

 Exhaust off as well

 Next round I'll have a crack at getting the engine out.


Cheers,
SammyA

Race Modifications

On top of fixing the engine, this is the list of the modifications I'll need to make to ensure it meets the race regulations:

(I've referenced Chapter 15 of the GCR's (Manual of Motorcycle Sport) and Preston Race Clubs F1 Pre-Modern Rules) Hopefully I haven't missed anything!

• The following must be removed

          a) Headlamp;
          b) Tail lamp;
          c) Reflectors;
          d) Horns;
          e) Traffic indicators;
          f) Rear vision mirrors;
          g) Centre and side stands;
          h) Registration plate / bracket and label holder;
          Any sharp edges left by the removal of these components must be protected by a rolled edge or    beading of minimum 3mm diameter.

• Engine and gearbox breathing hoses and tubes, and the radiator overflow bottle vent, must exhaust into the airbox to the rear of the carburetor intakes. The lower airbox breather tube must be blocked.
• Front brake caliper bolts must be lockwired in the tightened position
• Oggy knobs cant protrude more than 80mm from the bodywork
  
• Chain guard must be fitted to prevent trapping between the lower drive chain run and the rear sprocket
• All lateral covers/engine cases that contain oil that could hit the ground in a crash have to have protection made of carbon/kevlar/solid steel to stop it spilling the cases.
• Plugs and caps that may spil fluid if opened must be lockwired tight
• Hoses must be securely fitted and guarded to prevent contact with the road
• Only coolant allowed is water
• Lower fairing catch tray to hold minimum of 3L (if the engine lets go) with 2 x 25mm holes which can be opened if its a wet race.

If anyone can see something I've missed let me know :-)


Cheers,
SammyA

The Begining

After a year of solid track days and hard road riding, my faithful 1998 Suzuki GSX-R600 has a suspected "spun crankshaft main bearing". She is still running, but major failure is probably immanent. What to do? Do I spend $2000+ rebuilding an engine on a $4000 motorbike? sounds like false economy to me. Time for a new road bike, have a go at doing my first rebuild and convert the GSXR into a full time track bike.

I can either rebuild the current engine, or find a donor wreck to take the engine from and score a second set of rims for intermediate/wet tyres. I'm going to start the rebuild and if a donor comes along in the mean time, then great!

This blog will document the conversion of my 1998 Suzuki GSX-R600 into a Pre-Modern Race Bike!

Former glory:

What she now sounds like (That knocking noise):

Cheers,

SammyA